No Machine Ice Cream
Originally I had planned to make a candied ginger ice cream using the “kick the can” method. The kick the can method of making ice cream involves placing the ice cream base in a cleaned metal coffee tin, taping it shut and putting it in a significantly larger clean, metal coffee tin, filled with ice and rock salt. Once you close that, you can literally kick it around, churning and chilling the ice cream in the process, until it has become ice cream. I say “metal tin” because most coffee “tins” are made out of cardboard and plastic now.
Then I realized I’d just recycled everything possible to use for this purpose in the house, so I had to resort to using Ziploc freezer bags instead. Freezer bags have the opposite effect of metal cans. Freezer bags are quite insulating, whereas metal acts almost as if the ice cubes ricochet directly against the ice cream itself. I borrowed a fridge-full of ice cubes from the neighbors, emptied our own freezer, and still, 20 minutes later, after churning the mixture about in my hands (which is a strangely calming sensation, like ocean waves and clattering seashells… can you tell we’ve been looking at iTravel2000.com lately?) and all of the ice melting, I still had something pretty soupy.
After chilling this mixture in the freezer overnight, still in the freezer bag but with the surrounding bag of ice removed, it set up perfectly. I mushed it around quickly in my hands and took a spoonful to my mouth. Intense orangy goodness! Orangy? Oh, right. That was the other thing. I made a bunch of candied ginger, only to discover that my candied ginger is significantly more intense than the stuff you buy in a bulk bin. So instead of ginger ice cream, I made a Grand Marnier and vanilla bean version. Still complimentary flavors, but I just ate the ice cream with the ginger slices, which I’ve been snacking on for the last 24 hours or so now.
This style of ice cream is basically a simple vanilla custard that is frozen afterward. You could infuse any flavor you like into the milk, not just orange and/or vanilla. If you’re going to add chunks of anything though (say, strawberries, or chocolate chunks, for instance), add them after the ice cream has started to set, not while making the custard! My next plan is to churn out a dulce de leche and banana version. How does that sound? Sounds good to me!
- 1 cup whole milk
- 1 cup 35% cream
- 1 vanilla bean
- Zest of 2 oranges
- 5 egg yolks
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 3/4 ounce Grand Marnier
- One large coffee can
- One smaller coffee can
- Ice cubes
- Salt
- Place the milk and cream in a saucepan over medium heat. Split the vanilla bean in two, scrape out the seeds with a paring knife, and set aside. Place the seeded vanilla pod and orange zest in the milk and cream and bring just to a boil, stirring occasionally. Set this aside to infuse for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent a skin from forming on the milk.
- Strain the milk/cream mixture and discard the vanilla bean and orange zest. Return the dairy to the saucepan with the seeds of the vanilla pod and return just to a boil.
- Meanwhile, beat together the egg yolks and sugar in a large bowl until light and frothy. When the dairy comes just to a boil, remove it from the heat. Quickly mix in a spoonful of the hot milk, a tablespoon or two at a time, into the egg yolks, to temper them. Gradually incorporate all of the dairy into the egg yolks and sugar, then return everything to the saucepan once more.
- Cook this gently over medium-low heat, stirring often, until it thickens enough to easily coat the back of your spoon.
- Remove from the heat, stir in the Grand Marnier, and chill, stirring occasionally, over an ice bath, until it is cool to the touch. Cover with plastic wrap directly against its surface and refrigerate for several hours.
- This mixture can be churned in an ice cream maker, but it is not necessary. Pretty much any sealed container inside another sealed container will work, though some better than others. Ideally, place the chilled custard in a coffee can, put the lid on and secure it well with tape. Place this can inside a larger coffee can and surround the smaller can with ice and salt. The salt actually helps decrease the temperature, cooling the ice cream faster, so don’t omit it! Seal the larger can and shake, spin, roll or kick (lightly!) the can until the ice cream has been churned long enough to set, about 15-20 minutes. You can then eat it immediately or store the small can of ice cream in the freezer, discarding the salty ice water.
- 1 pound ginger, peeled and thinly sliced (1/16″ to 1/8″)
- 4 cups water
- 4 cups sugar (plus more for coating)
- pinch of salt
- Place the ginger slices in a large pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Drain the ginger and return it to the pot with the measured water, sugar and a pinch of salt.
- Bring the syrup to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and cook the ginger until the syrup thickens to a honey-like consistency. If you have a probe thermometer with an alert function, you can walk away and wait until the temperature reads 225 degrees, just make sure to check from time to time that there is still, in fact, syrup in the pot!
- Drain the ginger slices, reserving the ginger-flavored syrup if desired. It’s a great addition to iced tea, for example. Space the ginger slices out on a parchment-lined baking sheet or on a cooling rack.
- When the slices have cooled slightly, dust them heavily with sugar to coat. Spread them around in the sugar to cover. Cool completely (such as overnight) and then transfer them to an airtight container.
People say that peeling ginger is easiest with a spoon because you can get into the knooks and crannies easier than with a vegetable peeler. That is true if you’re just peeling a 1″ knob for a curry, but an entire pound is a little tedious with something so dainty. I like to peel the larger surface with a vegetable peeler and then tend to the knooks and crannies with the spoon. So there.
Certainly this recipe can be scaled down dramatically, as a pound of ginger is a very significant quantity. Just make sure that the ginger stays submerged in syrup during the cooking process. Ginger can be quite fibrous, so try to find the freshest ginger you can for the most tender candied slices.
Candied ginger can be used for all sorts of baked goods, like cookies, crumbles and pies, especially in things containing oranges, dates, apples or pears. They can also simply be eaten as is.
I love making ice cream and this sounds like a fun new way to prepare it. I like simple ice cream flavors – vanilla bean, chocolte, coconut.
Even with the freeeeeeezing winter temperatures, it is never too cold for ice cream!
Eating ice cream at the same temperature as a freezer is a unique experience :) I definitely appreciate that ice cream is best without much complexity – one or two tone flavors are indeed best.
Oh…candied ginger recipe….me likee a lot!
Unfortunately some of this ended up being kind of fibrous. I might try it again when there’s “new” ginger about.