The Russet Apple

The supermarket holds a great testament to this country’s love of apples. Of our three most eaten fruits, bananas are almost universally stocked of a single type, and oranges rarely extend more than two or three varieties, but apples, apples have their own section that rivals any other in the produce department. These apples are not created equal, all possessing characteristics to please many palates and cooking methods. For the snacker with a sweet tooth, there’s the golden delicious. For a satisfying and tangy crunch, there’s the granny smith. While some apples become mealy and undesirable when cooked, others can completely retain their shape in a pie or crumble.

While apples are certainly available year round, they will be naturally picked in the fall, so during the fall and early winter months you will see a greater variety of apples. If you happen to look, you will notice these locally grown and seasonal fruits hiding out among the standard fare. I have recently discovered a new favorite: the Russet apple. The Russet has an unappealingly dull and rough brown exterior not particularly noteworthy next to its shiny red counterparts. However, its fragrant aroma and flavor are unparalleled.

Russet apples are fairly small, but possess an incredible sweet flavor, almost reminiscent of a honey-infused cider. These flavors make the Russet apple an easy choice for use in pies or, as I did most recently, turned into applesauce. A similar underrated fruit to pair with it in baking would be the Bosc pear, its also rough brown exterior unfortunately conceals its otherwise exceptional characteristics.

Applesauce

• 1 pound Russet apples, peeled, cored and chopped
• 1/2 lemon, peeled and juiced
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar
• pinch of salt

1. Place the apples, a piece of lemon peel, lemon juice, cinnamon, sugar and salt in a pot and add just enough water to cover the bottom of the pot.
2. Bring the pot to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, covered, until the apples are very tender and begin to fall apart, about half an hour.
3. Remove the lemon peel, taste the applesauce and add additional sugar, if necessary. Allow to cool to room temperature and then transfer to a jar and refrigerate.

If you want to preserve the natural color of the apple, simply substitute white sugar for the brown sugar and use a cinnamon stick instead of ground cinnamon. I love how the natural pectin in apples causes apple sauce to set almost like a jam if you reduce it enough. For a particularly fine texture, pass it through a fine meshed strainer or food mill before placing in a jar. Serve spread on warm, buttered toast for breakfast, alongside pork and root vegetables for dinner or as a component of dessert.